When the internal stop-tap won't turn off, you can't safely work on anything else in the property. We replace the failing valve, restore proper isolation, and leave you with a working shut-off.
What we replace, end to end
Seized, jammed, weeping or sheared stop-taps. We isolate at the boundary box, swap the old gate or screwdown valve for a modern quarter-turn lever ball-valve, and pressure-test before leaving site. Where the pipework around the stop-tap has corroded too, we replace the local run in copper or push-fit.
Common stop-tap faults we see
Seized open and won't turn off
Common on pre-1990s gate valves. Trying to force the handle often snaps the spindle and floods the cupboard.
Weeping from the gland
Spindle packing has perished. Sometimes a re-pack works, often a full replacement is more honest.
Stop-tap behind boxed-in pipework
We open access cleanly, label and brace the surrounding pipework, and make good after.
No stop-tap fitted at all
Older properties sometimes have only a boundary-box stop. We add an internal valve so you have a safe local shut-off.
What it costs (indicative)
Most stop-tap swaps complete inside the one-hour minimum labour charge. Materials at trade cost plus 30% markup, fully itemised. Full pricing.
When to call us
- ✔ Your existing stop-tap won't fully close and you can't isolate for any other plumbing work.
- ✔ There's a visible drip from the valve body or spindle.
- ✔ You've just moved in and want a working internal shut-off as basic insurance.
- ✔ Insurance claim conditions require proof of a working stop-tap.