247 Rapid Response
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247 Rapid Response engineer at the rear of a fully-kitted emergency response van on a London street at night

Emergency plumbing

Dripping tap repair and replacement across London

A tap that will not stop dripping, a stiff lever that no longer shuts off, or a mixer that has lost its temperature control usually means a worn washer, cartridge, or O-ring. Our directly-employed, fully insured plumbers repair or replace it across London and the M25, typically within 30 to 60 minutes.

30 to 60 min target response12-month guaranteeGas Safe Registered
30-60 MINResponse time
12 MOWorkmanship guarantee
FULLYInsured & accredited
24/7365 days a year

A dripping tap is rarely just a dripping tap. On older quarter-turn ceramic disc cartridges the seat is scored, on traditional rising-spindle taps the washer has perished, and on mixer taps the diverter or O-ring has hardened past the point of a serviceable rebuild. Left alone, the slow drip wears the porcelain glaze on a basin, leaves a limescale tail on stainless steel, and in hard-water postcodes accelerates pinhole corrosion on the brass below.

We repair where a repair is the right call, and replace where it is not. Ceramic disc cartridges on Hansgrohe, Bristan, Grohe, and Vado bodies are stocked in 35mm and 40mm sizes for same-visit swaps, and we carry traditional 1/2-inch BSP reseating kits for older bib taps and pillar taps where the brass is still sound. Where a full replacement is needed, the new tap is matched to the existing tap-hole layout (monobloc, three-hole, deck mounted, or wall mounted), supplied as a WRAS-approved unit, fitted with new flexi tails, and isolated through new in-line service valves so the next service can be done without draining the system.

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When We Use This

Where this service applies

  • Dripping kitchen monobloc, where the hot or cold side will not fully shut off at the lever
  • Stiff or grinding ceramic disc cartridge that no longer turns smoothly under fingertip pressure
  • Mixer tap losing temperature control, hot and cold crossing through a failed cartridge or diverter
  • Basin pillar taps weeping at the spindle gland or running on at the spout
  • Loose tap body rocking on the worktop or basin, back-nut has loosened over time
  • Limescale-locked spouts on swivel kitchen taps, no longer rotate cleanly
  • Pull-out spray hose or pull-down kitchen mixer hose failure
  • Fitting of new isolation valves so future tap servicing does not require a full drain-down
Our Process

How we deliver

No surprises, no upselling. The exact path every job follows.

  1. 1
    Inspection and repair-or-replace call
    We strip the tap head to identify the cartridge family (ceramic disc, traditional washer, or compression), check the seat, and confirm whether a service kit will give a reliable long-term fix or whether replacement is the safer choice.
  2. 2
    Isolation at service valve or stop-tap
    Where in-line isolation valves exist we shut hot and cold locally. Where they do not, we close the internal BS1010 stop-tap and drain the relevant section, then fit new isolators on the supply tails as part of the visit.
  3. 3
    Tap removed cleanly
    Flexi tails disconnected, back-nut released with a basin wrench, and the old tap lifted clear. We protect basin glaze and worktop laminate during removal so the surface is not chipped or scored.
  4. 4
    Cartridge service or new tap fitted
    Replacement 35mm or 40mm ceramic disc cartridge fitted on a serviceable body, or a new WRAS-approved tap installed with fresh sealing washers and a stainless top-hat where the basin is thin-rim ceramic.
  5. 5
    New flexi tails and isolators
    Old braided tails replaced as standard, since the rubber core perishes long before the outer braid shows wear. New quarter-turn isolation valves fitted on hot and cold tails so the next service does not require a full drain-down.
  6. 6
    Recommission and test
    Supplies reopened slowly to purge air, hot and cold run through full lever travel, and joints checked under live pressure. Aerator removed and cleared of any debris flushed through during the works.
  7. 7
    Site left clean and photo-logged
    Old parts bagged for disposal, work area wiped down, and a short photo record kept of the installed tap and isolators for our service file and your records.
Frequently Asked

Your questions answered

Is it worth repairing a dripping tap, or should I just replace it?
If the body is sound, the chrome plating is intact, and the cartridge is a current standard (35mm or 40mm on Hansgrohe, Bristan, Grohe, and similar), a cartridge swap is the right call and typically lasts another five to ten years. If the spout has limescale-locked, the chrome is flaking, or the body is a discontinued bargain-brand monobloc, replacement is usually cheaper than chasing the parts.
How long does a tap replacement take?
A like-for-like swap on a monobloc kitchen tap with isolation valves already fitted typically completes inside the one-hour minimum labour charge. Adding new isolators, working in tight cupboard space, or replacing a corroded back-nut on a 30-year-old basin tap can add 30 to 60 minutes. We confirm the estimate before any chargeable work starts.
Do I need to turn the whole house water off?
Usually no. If in-line service valves are fitted on the hot and cold tails (a small slotted screw on each pipe under the sink or basin) we isolate locally and the rest of the house keeps water. If no isolators are fitted we use the internal BS1010 stop-tap, and we fit new quarter-turn isolators on the new tails as part of the visit.
Can you supply the new tap, or do I need to buy one?
Either works. We stock standard chrome monoblocs and basin mixers from Bristan, Grohe, and Vado for same-visit fitting. If you want a specific designer model (a particular Hansgrohe, Aqualisa, or Perrin and Rowe range) it is usually faster for you to order the unit and book us to fit on arrival.
Why does my tap make a hammering noise when I shut it off?
That is water hammer, caused by a fast-closing lever (typically a quarter-turn ceramic disc) abruptly stopping a column of water. It usually points to a missing or failed shock arrestor on the supply, loose pipework in the wall or under the floor, or excessive mains pressure. We can fit a mini shock arrestor or pressure-reducing valve as a quick fix, see also our water hammer page.
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30 to 60 minute response across every London borough. Gas Safe registered. 12-month workmanship guarantee.

FAQ

Dripping tap repair and replacement: your questions

How fast can you reach me for dripping tap repair and replacement?
Typical on-site time is 30 to 60 minutes across the M25, subject to engineer availability and traffic. Live dispatch, never queued. Times quoted are best-effort targets, not contractual guarantees.
What does dripping tap repair and replacement typically cost?
Labour is one flat rate across London and the M25, billed per 30 minutes: from £75 / 30 min (daytime) up to £147 / 30 min (nighttime), with a one-hour minimum then 30-minute increments. There is no callout fee. Domestic prices shown inc VAT, no hidden extras. Fixed-price conversion available on most jobs after diagnosis. Full rate card.
Is the work guaranteed?
Yes. Dripping tap repair and replacement carries the same 12-month workmanship guarantee as every other emergency plumbing job we do.
Are you Gas Safe registered?
Yes. Gas Safe Register number 972173. Verifiable live at gassaferegister.co.uk before our engineer walks in.

Need dripping tap repair and replacement now?

30 to 60 minute response across every London borough. Gas Safe registered. 12-month workmanship guarantee.